Friends and French Lifestyle
After departing from Saint Remy over a week ago, we embarked on a journey to visit our dear friends Claire and Hubert. They live in a beautifully secluded property surrounded by Holm Oaks in the Pyrenees, to the south of Perpignan. For those who joined me in Beaune, you may recall Claire and Hubert from their memorable Truffle workshop. They have invested immense effort in transforming a stone barn into a character-filled home that showcases their talents in decoration, joinery, crafting their own wooden floors, and cultivating a garden in one of the driest conditions I’ve ever seen. While we do have our share of rabbits, we can count ourselves lucky not to contend with foxes or wild boars.
On our journey to Can Nourat ( the name of Claire and Huberts property) I fulfilled a dream I’ve held for many years – a visit to a garden I’ve always wanted to see. I’ve been a follower of Olivier and Clara Filippi and have many of their books. Their gardening philosophy requires no watering and given their dry, hot climate we were very keen to see their property. They’ve taken garden courses on arid conditions worldwide and now have an extensive nursery. Beyond their home, facing the estuary which was lined with oyster beds, was the driest garden I’ve ever seen. Clara mentioned that the scorching summer had left the garden parched and was about to be cut down, in readiness for next season to spring it back to life. It was an absolute thrill to finally experience their garden first hand.
We spent three nights being totally spoilt by Claire and Hubert. Claire had prepared all our meals in advance , and truffle found its way into nearly every dish, including dessert. Our visits to the local market and a renowned bakery, famous throughout France, along with explorations of the surrounding region, made those two days pass far too quickly.
Our journey continued with a long day of driving, starting with a visit to the charming tourist town of Collioure, which despite its appeal, is also home to a massive naval base and heaving with tourists. For those familiar with the history of the Knights of Malta, we made an unexpected stop in the town of La Cavalier, which played a role in the Templar knights’ history before their later migration to Rhodes and Malta. Claire informed us of an excellent Brocante shop here which we never found (wrong town) and probably the rich history of the knights was much better.
Now, after 28 years, we find ourselves back in the Dordogne. Our dear friends Murray and Lynda have generously lent us their super cute house, decorated in their clever and natural style. It sits above the road, with stunning views of the Dordogne River, in a tiny village of about 20 houses known as Le Pech. In 1996, Philip and I embarked on a month-long European adventure with our children, aged 8, 5, and 3. We knew the location of every playground and spent 3 nights in Bergerac. We explored villages and gardens then, much as we’re doing now. Back then, we missed the opportunity to explore Sarlat, but this time we enjoyed three wonderful hours in their very busy market. I’ve never seen so many producers selling Foie Gras, Cassoulet, and Confit of Duck.
A dear Irish friend of ours called Mary (who was our godmother and gave us such a fabulous time while we were in London in 1996!), once told us that the French excel at producing Foie Gras, Cassoulet, and Confit of Duck in a can. So, we indulged in Cassoulet one night, followed by Foie Gras and cheese on a baguette for lunch, and Confit of Duck with roast potatoes for dinner. We certainly packed all our calories into a single day!
As we grow more familiar with our surroundings, it’s fun to explore the neighbouring villages. Beynac, less than a 5-minute drive away, is a typical medieval village, dominated by its imposing Chateau, the steep streets paved with polished stones proved quite the challenge for Phil to climb. This region is renowned for its numerous prehistoric sites, though regrettably, we missed the important Les Eyzies National museum because we arrived too late. The slow-flowing Dordogne River meanders through the valley, teeming with canoes. Hundreds are stacked along the riverbank, and each day, the river comes alive with the sight of yellow and orange canoes gently paddling through this beautiful landscape.
Our return to the formal gardens of Erignac was an interesting experience after so many years. They have relaxed their rules since our last visit; now, a guide is not needed. I vividly remember Hannah as a 3-year-old being told off for sitting on the grass picking at it. While the gardens are quite different from what we prefer, the structure and historical significance of the garden is still amazing.
I wish time could stand still – as we sit in the evening with a glass of wine we have to pinch ourselves that we are here and so relaxed .