Olympia / Olympics
As we head down the Peloponnese from Nafpaktos. I omitted to mention that we made a side excursion back to a place called Mesologgi - for a couple of reasons. They have large areas where they make natural sea salt here and it’s a place that attracts Flamingo. I wanted to get a photo for our granddaughter Emme who loves flamingos. Yes, we found flamingos – however, they didn’t look terribly pink, and when I went to take a photo they all flew off on mass.
And also believe it or not – this is the place where the British-born poet Lord Byron died at age 36 - after joining the Greek insurgents who were fighting a war of independence against the Ottoman Empire. He died of pneumonia a few days later. It was a late afternoon excursion and I was lucky to return after getting completely confused in the narrow streets of “ Mesologgi “
For the next 3 nights, we have booked into a typically Greek-looking hotel in the town of Kardamyli - a 4hour drive down the Peloponnese east coast with a stop at the famous town of Olympia. This was a very moving visit -considering the Olympic games are just beginning.
Every day is scorchingly hot here – and the archaeological site was relenting. To see and imagine where athletes trained and lived was incredible – but the site holds history in the palm of your hand, and through very good explanation boards everywhere, we were thoroughly transfixed and enthralled and our imaginations were running wild. The two archaeological museums were a valued respite from the heat and provided the detail behind the ruins.
But there were lots of details I didn’t know: The Olympic games were held every 4 years from 8th century BC to 4th Century AD. The sacred area, named the Altis, was dedicated to the god Zeus. To compete in the Olympics you had to be male, Greek, arrive 1 month before the games, train with a tutor in the gymnasia - nude. (‘Greek Gymnos meaning Nude )
Events ranged from running – 1 length of the stadium =200m / 2 lengths = 400m/ 4 lengths 800m/Long distance 7-24 lengths (about 1400-4800 m.) long jump, javelin, discus, wrestling, boxing, the pankration which was a combination of wrestling and boxing and involved throwing one's opponent, to racing in armour, chariot racing and equestrian.
They even had plinths where cheating athletes had to stand in disgrace. Anyone could watch as long as you were male !!
Honestly, this was a fabulous visit. We have learnt so much about this ancient world of Greek gods and the classics- we are forever referring to Mr Google and it’s hard to comprehend the time frame and the clever-clever ancient world.
Our 3-night stop in Kardamyli was restful and we loved our very Greek family-run hotel called Kalamitsi. All the buildings use the local stone here and there were lots of clever restorations for accommodation and private residences.
Through the green gate, past the olive trees, and down some rather steep steps below the hotel was a private beach. The water is blissful – salty and warm and you can literally float for ages. Time sitting in a lounger with our books until the early evening has become a ritual. The town is full of a great selection of restaurants and by 9 pm there is an influx of diners, including many families with children. We are becoming familiar with the favourite Greek dishes found on most menus. But we best loved …Octopus stew on fava spread, Maniatiki salad – Potatoes, orange and fennel, and deep fried baby squid. The gorgeous ‘ mother “ at the hotel also prepared amazing traditional homemade dishes - stifado –(beef and baby onions) incredibly delicious simple greens with lemon and classic Orange and Filo pastry cake.
Our times were spent exploring nearby seaside towns, historical sites and the chance to enjoy a few shops. Always a slow walk because of the heat before a simple lunch with our favourite dips and bread. Plus, usually an Aperol spritz.
As we travel further down the Peloponnese the architecture changes from stone to plaster and houses are painted in beautiful soft colours, the landscape is literally Olive trees and rocks. Consequently, there are many impressive stone walls and we are amazed at how the Olive trees grow in amongst the huge rocks. We did go close and personal with some olive trees when we took a wrong turn and Google Maps led us through what was literally a farm track before we popped out on the main road again. It was very funny – but, Phil wasn’t smiling.
The colours, landscapes and architecture have made our driving days very special and each stop is a new treat.
Our destination is Monemvasia to a hotel within a walled town that has literally been built on a rock.