I am not sure how to describe Monemvasia.

We had a lovely day getting here and for quite some time travelled through areas growing oranges, albeit in amongst more olives.

As we drove over the causeway towards this rock – where you couldn’t even see any sign of a castle wall until you virtually arrived.

We had information from our hotel :

For your best convenience, we would like to note the following:

Theophano Art Hotel is located inside the traditional settlement of the Monemvasia Castle. Please bear in mind that no cars can enter the traditional settlement. We thus propose that you first drive up to the Castle's main gate, leave your luggage their, with the front passenger and then go to park along the road. You'll see all the other cars parked alongside. It is the only parking solution available near the Castle!

The hotel is located on the southern part of the settlement, at a distance of around 350 metres from the Castle's main entrance. You can reach the hotel on foot following the signs "Theophano Art Hotel" Given the special conditions that apply to the Castle's settlement (i.e. all alleys are stone cobbled footpaths and you can move around only on foot), we propose you wear comfortable shoes and pack as light as possible.

I must admit we were a bit daunted – given Philip’s knee is deteriorating all the time and I started to worry about what we were going to do on a rock for 3 nights. However, we didn’t need to concern ourselves. Our hotel room was eye-poppingly fabulous with Greek Antique furniture and clever décor from our hosts who obviously had an ‘Eye”. We had a balcony with a view over the Aegean and could watch the enormous sailing vessels arrive and depart each day.

The narrow cobbled lanes lead to the one lane in and out of the Village. We had 3 great evening meals with stunning views over the water and have learnt in Greece to buy one portion and share it. The servings are very generous here. On the first morning, we found a great café for coffee and fresh orange juice and returned every day to the point they knew our order. Although, we did enjoy Hannah’s Shaksuka one day!! With only two full days, we set out both to the south and north along the coast. First to the island of Elafonisos. As usual, we found ourselves on a very minor road. But, we were captivated by the small villages with very beautifully restored houses. We climbed very high and enjoyed stunning views. The wild flowers on the sides of the road were amazing - Erginiums, giant fennels, Phlomis and Aliums and then there were areas that looked like a wild Mediterranean garden covering the hillsides with no water. I was captivated and realised we were here in the wrong season.

It was a short ferry ride to Elafonsis and the typical Greek seaside village with restaurants lining the port and tables on both sides of the street. We were so excited to meet a group of guys sitting under a tree and weaving the original rush seats on chairs that you see all over Greece.

Swimming below the Castle walls down a ladder was a thrill and as our lovely hotel owner reminded us, people have been swimming their for 6000 years .

Above our town within the castle walls is the upper townarchaeological site. It towers above us. Phil’s knee prohibited him from doing this climb. But I really wanted to go up there. I set the alarm and headed off at 6.30 to see the sunrise and visit the restored Greek Orthodox church. I was not expecting the size and extent of the upper town. It was extensive, and for quite some time, I was the only person up their, which was pretty surreal. As much as it is so hard to imagine life up here, it's even more astounding how many times the rulers changed from Byzantine, Ottoman, and Venetian until they destroyed the old town. Today investors have restored the bottom town and tourism is doing well here.

Walking down on the shiny rocks was almost more difficult than the climb.

To the north of Monemvasia, we had a typical lunch and another Greek salad in a quiet fishing port. We found an isolated beach on the way back and swam in our underwear. The water was sublime.

Monemvasia is as far as we made it down the Peloponnese - Athens awaited us 4 hours drive away, for our last 3 days in Greece.

After meeting a French family they suggested we visit the archeological site of Mrystra, close to Sparta.

This is another important site in Greece that was once 2nd to Constantinople in importance in the Byzantine era. It still maintains many well-preserved Byzantine churches, with original friezes. These archaeological sites are impressive, they involve many steps and walking, although at times we haven't read enough or walked to the highest church !! They are inspiring and humbling. Sadly, it’s the same story throughout Greece – as the Byzantines, Ottomans, Venetians and the Greeks sought power, and destroyed and rebuilt their cities and monuments over thousands of years.