‘Where Lemons Grow’
Europe has experienced a cool and very wet Spring and most people are over it. We did get a day of unsettled weather and drove through some heavy rain storms through the Dolomites to Bolzano and onto Riva at the top of Lake Garda. Bolzano is one of the important towns of the Trento Adige Valley along with Trento. Given the shifting boundaries in its history, there is a definite Austrian feel here and both German and Italian is spoken. Being a Sunday much of Bolzano was closed but, the streets and cafes were vibrant with locals.
I chose Riva at the top of Lake Garda because of its proximity to the ancient lemon houses that once lined the shores at the top of the lake. I read a book called ‘Where Lemons Grow ‘ and since then have wanted to see them– especially in the town called Limone – which incidentally means ‘border” and is not named after the famous lemons.
Our hotel sits with all its bedrooms looking out on Lake Garda – Ferries come and go regularly and the streets are full of visitors. It’s rare for me to have a two-night stop. However, it worked perfectly to explore two of the major villages at the top of the lake, Limone and Malcasine.
It was only a 30-minute ferry ride to Limone and the boat gave us ideal views of the now-unused lemon houses. The derelict open-roofed structures now seemed to be gardens although we did visit one that is now a museum which gave us an insight into how this microclimate came to be so popular in the 18th Century. The town was cute and lined with shops selling lemon products from Limoncello, soap and sweets to lemon printed fabric for clothes, bags, teatowels etc etc.
A beautiful paddle boat turned up on time to ferry us across the lake to Malcasine and although we could have visited the castle or taken the gondola to the mountain behind we were happy enjoying lunch and for me, simple Brushetta Pomodoro. Time to wander the narrow streets – which to be honest were full of tourists, before returning to Riva.
We liked Riva and the walk back to our hotel along the lake edge was busy with walkers, cyclists, children on scooters and bikes and many people walking dogs. I had spotted what looked like a lovely restaurant called Emozioni the previous day and it turned out to be a great find. Run by a brother and sister the food and service were excellent. I had scallops and Guinea Fowl which was delicious.
Sailing boats are starting to arrive here as the world junior sailing event starts in two weeks. Riva has constant wind that changes in the morning and the afternoon – consequently there were many windsurfers, kite surfers and sailboats busy on the water.
A day without the bus meant Daniele could get on his bike and although I think this tested him the view had to be admired.
Two nights did their job and now we head East through Emilia Romagna, skirting Milan to Piedmonte to do some serious wine tasting of Barbaresco and Barolo wines and become acquainted with the landscape and taste its distinctive food.