Totally Rome
I was well aware that Rome, along with many other major cities in Italy, was grappling with the challenges of too much tourism. However, Rome has always been a centre of tourism for hundreds and hundreds of years and it is staggering how thousands and thousands of visitors move around the city daily. Some of my group had arrived several days ahead of the scheduled start date on September 15th, and for three of my group they made a very special trip to Monte Cassino, where Leigh’s father had fought during World War II.
In preparation for our stay, I had researched and found two restaurants called Ditirambo and Grappolo D’Oro. They were within walking distance of our hotel which is situated behind the Pantheon and close to Campo Fiore. These restaurants specialised in authentic Roman cuisine, particularly renowned for their Cacio e Pepe, the famous Pecorino cheese and ground pepper pasta, as well as their pillow-soft Ravioli and delicious Saltimbocca – veal slices drenched in a creamy sauce. Both restaurants were family-owned, offering not only fantastic food but also a wonderful welcoming atmosphere that added to our fun on the night.
One of the highlights of our visit was as always my arranged visit to my favourite Borghese Gallery, nestled within the expansive Borghese Gardens behind the Spanish Steps. This gallery contains an eye watering collection amassed by Cardinal Borghese, featuring an array of Bernini sculptures and masterpieces by renowned artists such as Raphael and Caravaggio. It is always a privilege to explore this sumptuous Villa which was also once Cardinal Borghese’s private residence where he was surrounded by his treasures. During our visit, some had the opportunity to enjoy a golf cart ride through the picturesque Borghese Gardens.
I had a one day visit planned outside Rome. With the assistance of an exceptional guide named Giovanni, who owns Italian Adventures. Within an hour of the city, we discovered the immense and intricate complex known as ‘Villa Adriana,’ built by the Roman Emperor Hadrian. We also explored another opulent garden, ‘Villa d’Este,’ a short 15-minute drive away, which had been created by the wealthy Cardinal called Cardinal d’Este. The steep terrain of Villa d’Este was a challenge, and it was evident that the garden had once had many more working fountains than remain today along with pathways of running water.
Giovanni thoughtfully arranged for our lunch at a very beautiful outdoor verandah, where we dined alongside Italian families who were obviously enjoying their Sunday lunch. The Italians, true to their reputation for style, were impeccably dressed for the occasion. What set Giovanni apart from many guides was his ability to gauge and read his group. Unlike some guides who overwhelm tourists with information, Giovanni tailored his explanations to our group’s needs. He ensured that we left with a clear understanding of the ruins of Villa Adriana and the lives of the thousands who once inhabited it.
In Rome, where over 220,000 tourists attempt to do “Rome in a Day” and more than a million opt for 3-4 night stays, our group faced a choice: the Roman Forum and Colosseum or the Vatican, (including a garden tour). After four exhausting hours amidst the crowds and intense heat, we returned feeling somewhat disappointed with our experiences. While we could check these historical sites off our lists, the satisfaction was lacking due to the crowds. One exception was our visit to the Pantheon, which now requires an entrance fee but proved to be an excellent choice. After an early morning walk exploring the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps (a peaceful and enjoyable experience), we were back in time for the opening of the Pantheon – which of course was easily accessible from our nearby hotel.
Our proximity to Capitoline Hill was also just a short walk from our hotel and overlooking the modern Piazza Venezia. It allowed us to admire Michelangelo’s 16th-century trapezoid redesign of the piazza. It remains a timeless architectural masterpiece. Originally it was the site of the temple of Jupiter and was situated to overlook the Roman Forum in its former Roman life. But, now it faces St. Peter’s Basilica.
Today’s Rome is a city built upon the foundations of many Romes, a place of immense historical complexity, which can be challenging for visitors from younger countries like New Zealand. It’s awe-inspiring to be immersed in artifacts dating back to the Etruscan era, around 5000 BC, onto the Roman Empire which was a time when wealth was displayed through statues, mosaic-filled villas, and vibrant frescoes.
In contrast the Vatican City, nestled within Rome, functions as its own city-state with a post office, radio station, observatory, and the extensive administrative complex of the Catholic Church, including the residence of the Pope. The grand dome of Saint Peter’s Basilica, designed by Michelangelo, is an iconic landmark visible from all corners of Rome, even as far away as Tivoli, a hundred kilometres away. However, our visit to the Vatican felt somewhat overwhelming from a health and safety perspective. The overcrowded museums and the Sistine Chapel, where visitors were packed shoulder to shoulder, made it nearly impossible to turn your head and fully appreciate Michelangelo’s ceiling. The overwhelming feeling of “I just want to get out of here” was scary, even as we navigated long corridors filled with crowds from one side to the other on our way to the exit.
It had been years since my last visit to the Santa Chiara Hotel in Rome, and I was pleasantly surprised to find familiar faces at the reception and the same level of impeccable service. As I reflected on our experiences, I couldn’t help but wonder how tourism in Rome could be better managed to ensure that visitors receive the memorable experiences they deserve and have paid for.
Recommendations:
Hotel in Rome: Albergo Santa Chiara
Restaurants: Ditirambo, Grappolo D’Oro, Obica
Guided tour to Villa Adriana and Villa d’Este: Giovanni from Italian Adventures.
Guided tour of the Borghese Gallery: Book through the gallery
Additional Suggestions:
Osteo Antica: Another fascinating Roman ruin worth exploring.
Villa Giulia: A superb Etruscan Museum that offers a glimpse into ancient history.