Caio Toscana
Leaving Piedmonte for the last 7 days of our Italian tour meant passing through Liguria. It’s difficult not to stop in Santa Margharita (even if the traffic is shocking) and take the 15-minute ferry ride past some rather impressive super yachts to the tiny port of Portofino. It’s definitely photogenic, famous for its high-end shops, and jet setters and is lined with equally highly-priced restaurants. Our 1 1/2 hours was a bit light on time but enabled everyone to see this very pretty place and experience the crowds that pile in throughout the day.
For 2024 we are back in Tuscany. But, opposite to the northern region from the 2023 tour of Val D’Orcia and the beautiful Villa of Castelecci to the countryside outside Lucca. We are staying in Villa Cara for a week. The entrance gardens are full of my favourite echinaceas and verbena bonarensis led us into the expansive living and dining areas. Our eyes widened as we explored the stunning orange-painted spacious villa. Alessandro was already cooking his first dinner of the week. Soon, after everyone found their allocated bedrooms, they were in the pool – which remained the most popular place after the dining table.
Finding and choosing a villa involves lots and lots of research and it is difficult when you can’t visit in person. However, it’s a joy when you arrive and your expectations are exceeded. The quietness, the surrounding gardens, the beautiful pool accessories, the outside logia for a barbecue or pizza plus the many dining arrangements make a week like this so special.
Day after day Alessandro produces wonderful Italian meals. He is a miracle worker finding the best seafood, classic bistecca steaks, local vegetables and fruits and wowing everyone with Pannacotta, Tirimasu, fresh bread and cakes. It’s been a joy to also have Stephania his wife come and spend a week with us – supposedly to relax – but they are perfect in the kitchen together. Each day someone is in the kitchen helping - a hands-on cooking class in reality, learning how to make everything from pasta and cheese to stuffed zucchini flowers and toppings for crostini.
The walled town of Lucca is a favourite destination for tourists and many walk or bike the medieval walls. But, our Sunday morning walk with guide Karine was quiet and perfect for us to soak up her information and history of her home town extolling its wonderful architecture from Roman to Renaissance and although it has less than the 57 churches it once had, there are many impressive stunning marble facades and medieval towers remaining. It’s the home of Puccini and music continues as a festival during June and July and flourishes with musicians like Ed Sheeran, Eric Clapton and Sam Smith, to name a few.
Our pool and surroundings are just magnificent at Villa Cara. New orange pool accessories have appeared, consequently, it was fun trying them all out and spending time totally relaxing.
From Lucca we have a range of visits in any direction –Thirty minutes away is Pisa and although I thought it was so close we had to do this I couldn’t believe the masses of buses in the car park and when we arrived.
Described as: Marvel at the Leaning Tower - Just one of the Top 10 Pisa Attractions. 1. Square of Miracles and Leaning Tower. This grand square is the heart and soul of Pisa the symbol of its long and fascinating history. You can spend at least two hours exploring all the stunning edifices that make this Piazza one of the wonders of the world.
I am afraid mass tourism is at its best here. Everyone seemed to have their hands up holding the tower for photographs, long queues at the Duomo and Baptistry, the inevitable sellers of umbrellas and a long list of shabby tourist junk. Sorry, I suppose you get it – this is not my favourite place- tick the box you have been there – but the experience is disappointing. However, the protective walls did have gorgeous hanging caper plants dripping down.
In contrast, we travelled an hour to the hilltop town of Volterra. Famous for its Etruscan history – a complex civilisation before the Romans ruled. The town was cool, and quietly busy with visitors interested in the gorgeous hilltop town, enjoying a long lunch or possibly shopping for the famous alabaster. It was certainly a vast contrast to Pisa - and a more meaningful and rewarding experience.
The Cinque Terre is relatively close. 1 1/2 hours by bus to La Spezia and then I chose to train to the furthest of the 5 villages to Monterosso Al Mare. Obtaining train tickets was a nightmare amongst the throngs of people all wanting to do the same. Hundreds lined the platform to spend their day in one of Italy’s favourite spots. Miraculously most found seats and counting the stops we emerged at stop number 5 and found each other to walk a pleasant 10 minutes into Monterosso Al Mare. I had brought my group here primarily to eat lunch at one of my favourite seafood restaurants of all time called ‘Ciak’. Marinated anchovies, incredible octopus salad and Fritti Misto ( little fried fish) started our lunch before the best fish ravioli with prawn and tomato sauce. I have had this dish many times and it remains the same with its intense flavour. The man, still in the Galley cooking, is Ciak - the owner and character behind the beautiful food. Pasta'‘s and risottos are cooked in terracotta pots and served 2. I love this place and my group had the best experience which was my aim.
Given the business and crowds on the Cinque Terre, we were happy to sit on the boat back to La Spezia past Vernazza, Cognilia, Manerola and Riomaggorie, with a last stop in Portovenere before La Spezia. It was a great visit with beautiful weather and we couldn’t have visited on a better day.
