From Gardens to Markets in Provence
Europe is serviced by markets almost everywhere, Vendors load up with produce or whatever, unload at some ungodly hour, spend 6 hours selling, then load up before moving away at 1 pm. All to be repeated the next day at another village or town. The market at Saint Remy de Provence has a very renowned market and after spending a week here last year we felt everyone would love it. A large car park is transformed into rows of stalls selling clothes, shoes, bags, hats, linen, jewellery and on it goes. Across the road lining the narrow streets of old town Saint Remy is the food – a guy selling braids of beautiful garlic, tomatoes that looked like capsicums, masses of fruit and vegetables, cheese, charcuterie, bread and onto soaps, and lavender products. The market was very busy, locals were buying their weekly supplies and tourists everywhere had bags with their purchases.
Our morning was fun and productive, 3 of our men bought new shorts, while the girls had a ‘few’ bags. Philip and I topped up Alesandro’s (our chef) supplies with melons, strawberries, tomatoes, cheese and garlic. It is so good to buy and not look as you have to do so often when you're travelling.
For me though nothing could beat our afternoon visit to the famous La Louve garden in Bonnieux, created and developed by a lady called Nicole Vesian. After a life in textiles working for companies like Hermes and Christian Le Croix. She bought La Louve when she was 70 years old and with her design skills and flair she created an oasis on a steep site. The garden is based on shades of green - everything is trimmed into balls and linked with gravel paths and stone features. Little nooks to sit in are everywhere and the height of taller trees provide shade. A flat area below the house is lined with lavenders, which is perfect for looking down on.
After Nicole’s death, the garden has had several owners. For some time you could book months in advance to visit and then it was closed. Thanks go to my guide Elisabeth who provided me with the contact of the new owner. An hour with the gardener called Kevin was a dream come true Now, when I look at my book which I have had for so many years, I can see the garden.
Our final walking guide of the week was called Catherine and she brought to life one of my favourite cities, Aix en Provence. A town of 140,000 inhabitants, it has 40,000 students and has a feel like Dunedin. It’s also renowned as a big banking town and courts of law. She emphasised 3 characteristics of the city which were- the elegant honey-coloured stone buildings, beautiful heavy carved doors and many many fountains. Indeed, in the old town, there seems to be a fountain in the middle of every cross street and I think I have taken more photos of doors than I need. It was the 6th of June and the commemorations of the “D” day landings in Normandy – consequently, there was some rousing music and national anthems being played.
We managed a sneak visit to Menerbe before hitting the swimming pool. It is less than 10 minutes from our villa but has taken all week to get there.
Our 7 days have come around too fast and the last day was planned for a long lunch at Abby Val Valsaintes thanks to a dear friend Carolyn who had been there last year. An hour’s drive through what should have been stunning purple lavender !! Before that, we walked through a very quiet and authentic village called Simiane. It was gorgeous, incredibly peaceful and so old. On the opposite hill, over a rather bumpy road, it felt like our poor bus was doing some four wheel driving to reach the garden and restaurant of Abby Valsaintes. The garden had a large rose collection and paths led to a potager and dry garden, But, our highlight was lunch - sitting on a deck high above the garden our lunch was outstanding – incredibly good service and a clever simple menu.
It was one of those relaxed long lunches with a few local wines which helped make our trip back very quiet as many had a little sleep!!!
Finally a visit and wine tasting at Sir Ridley Scots winery called Bas Mes les Infermieres. Sadly, it turned out to be spoilt and irritating as we waited for another group to join ours – arriving in their Ferraris, their regardless attitude was plain rude. Apart from that, the tour was disappointing and the wine was average. I would say though it was the only disappointing visit after a truly wonderful week in Provence.
I rely on Alessandro and his wonderful cooking during a stay in a villa and this week has been no exception. To return each day to the quietness and relaxing atmosphere of the villa, knowing that pre-dinner drinks and nibbles will be at 6 o’clock and dinner will be at 7.30 – sometimes outside on a warm balmy evening.
Life on tour doesn’t get much better especially when I have yet another group of wonderful New Zealanders.
