And then there were Two

Post-tour there is a sense of loss as we get used to being by ourselves again, plus the need to rest and sleep a little more than usual for a few days. We are fortunate and spoilt that we can return to our bedroom (actually Martina’s) at Daniele’s family house in the Veneto. For two days we celebrated two Birthdays (Marika and Marja) - Daniele’s wife and sister and we appreciated being included in the extended family dinners.

For our last day in the Veneto, we had planned to go to Venice to visit the Biennale and couldn’t wait to see the New Zealand exhibit that won the prestigious Golden Lion. award. We chose a delightful 5-bedroom hotel called Locanda Ponte Dante in Treviso - that was a lesson in how to be sympathetic and extremely clever with a building built in the 1400’s. A 30-minute train ride and a longer trip down the Grand Canal in the slowest Vaporetto ( don’t choose the number 1 – it stops at every stop)  to arrive at the Giardini and wonder where everyone was. It never occurred to me that the Biennale would be closed on Monday. This is common all over Italy and you would think by now I would know. But, Venice is Venice and it never closes. Consequently,  we were gutted and beyond disappointed. We had planned and looked forward to this for months. The only thing to do was to sit with an Aperol Spritz and a beer and eat fritto misto back in our favourite restaurant called Onigo in Campo San Barnaba in the Dordoduro. Take the Vaporetto and Train back to Treviso, and have a quick rest before enjoying dinner with Cristina (my Venetian guide and friend) and Maurizio her partner at 9.30 pm at the busiest restaurant in the main square ‘Signorina’ in Treviso. it was packed with locals and the atmosphere was so lovely - full of families with children and the elderly.

For the next two days, we travelled down the East Coast of Italy heading to Brindisi in Puglia. The countryside changed from the Lagoons of the Veneto to a spectacular patchwork of wheatfields, olives and grapevines. At times there were fields of tomatoes, asparagus and zucchini and by the time we reached the coastal town of Rimini, the coastline had turned into colourful deckchairs and umbrellas – side by side on the beach as far as the eye could see. Restaurants lined the back of the beach and behind them hotels. This is where thousands of Italians spend their summer holidays. and they line the the sides of the Autostrada for kilometres and the landscape turns into a mass of olive trees.

By late afternoon we had turned inland for 30 minutes to stay at a castle called Castel di Luco- well why not? The restoration that has gone on here and in fact is still going on was remarkable. Authentic as much as possible, this family-owned property was a special visit. The son gave us a superb tour and provided an understanding of the incredible history and the work involved since the Earthquake in 2019.

We had another visit we dearly wanted to experience  - the flowering plains of Castelluccio. It was a very humbling drive for 4O minutes - firstly through many towns in rebuild mode after the Norcia earthquake although some are past reparable after the destruction and will remain as ruins. Higher and higher in the  Monti Sibillini National Park our little Lancia rental car finally had a short downhill to reach the breathtaking views of fields of wildflowers. Although we have arrived near the end of the season they were still spectacular. The town of Castelluccio is partially abandoned. However, little shops selling typical produce like dried lentils, chickpeas, salami and cheeses had popped up.

So 1 hour up – 1 hour down until we reached the coast. We then started our 7-hour drive at 11 am.   Stopping briefly for lunch at the most deserted place we have ever seen in Italy…. Siesta time Lesina !!! We found a bar that served so many snacks with our drinks we didn’t need to order lunch. By now we are surrounded by olive trees on either side of the autostrada - a mass of olive green everywhere and it was staggering to see the extent of planting.

Puglia is the home of my chef Alessandro. He took over our decision-making and before going to his bed and breakfast in the old town of Brindisi we had an aperitif and the best local lasagne at his parent’s house. Bed had never felt so good, plus the air-conditioning.

So from chef to local guide, Alessandro has introduced us not only to Brindisi, (the town where the Roman Apian way starts) but, to Lecce, Ostuni and a fabulous drive to Matera past so many Trulli houses. The temperatures are above 35 deg every now and down in the Sassi at Matera it was over 40 deg. I didn’t think we would ever choose to take a tour on a little upsized motorbike. But there was no way Philip's knee would have liked the steps, let alone all of us in the heat.

We have now secured a guide, hopefully, a villa and many visits. He has told us so many stories of his childhood here, eating the local Panzerotti, Rustico Leccese and I was disappointed I didn’t get an octopus burger.! Enjoying the seafood in Brindisi’s old fisherman’s neighbourhood with the locals, in the slightly cooler evenings was so special and so much fun. Plus we even did a bit of shopping!!  What could be better?

Our research in Puglia has been very worthwhile and hopefully, a new Itinerary will be suggested shortly.

A long-awaited Greek Holiday is about to begin for the next 14 days, We sailed to Corfu during the night. and have 5 days here up on the West Coast in an old fishing village called Agios Stefanoto to swim, rest and learn about another culture.